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  • Xiamen and Gulangyu

    Xiamen and Gulangyu

    After 3 short but wonderful days in Kinmen, we took the ferry across the straits to spend 2 nights in Xiamen (厦门). Commonly known as ‘The Gate to China’, Xiamen is one small island city very much like Singapore. The sub-provincial city of Fujian province is located along southeast of China where many emigrants to Southeast Asia had originated from. It was named as one of China’s Special Economic Zones in the early 1980s, giving its economy a significant boost.

    This modern city is blessed with a mild maritime climate, a good network of public transportation and a highly regarded Xiamen University. The coastal city was even once voted as China’s second “most suitable city for living”. Xiamen is home to more than 3 million even though the land area is smaller than Singapore.

    Cruise around Xiamen

    Next morning, we took a short cruise ride from Xiamen Ferry Terminal that circles around Xiamen coastline. We took a good look at Gulangyu Island (鼓浪屿) as the cruise slowly makes it way towards Taiwan Straits.

    No sighting of any high rise buildings compared to Xiamen main islands. One thing which stood out prominently is the granite statue of Zheng Chenggong (郑成功) on top of a huge rock.

    Xiamen ferry Terminal

    Taiwan Straits

    Xiamen Coastline

    The picture below is the grand Zheng Chenggong (Kongxiga) statue in Gulangyu.

    Statue of Zheng Chenggong

    Shortly after, an announcement that we are approaching Kinmen Island and urged all passengers to see it on the deck. The crews who were not seen most of the time now walk around with a basket of binoculars for rental. The cruise stopped briefly at one of the all-important buoys indicating the international border between the two nations.

    Border Buoy

    From here, we could see Taiwan Dadan Island (大膽島) and the big wordings of 三民主義統一中國.

    Dadan Island

    And with that, the cruise started making its way back to the ferry terminal. Personally, the cruise trip is not worth the time and I would rather visit other places in Xiamen.

    A walk around Gulangyu

    The queue for Gulangyu ferry was maddening by the time we reached the ferry terminal. Every departing ferry was swarmed with loads of people and seemingly overloaded. The ferry ride is free for the lower decks – a nice gesture. It took a while before our turn and thankfully, the ‘sardine’ ride lasted only 10 odd minutes.

    We spotted this nice looking rock not too far away from the ferry terminal where we alighted. The streets were crowded with tourists even on a weekday.

    Rock

    Gulangyu is indeed very picturesque with plenty of beautiful European architecture. Charming colonial style mansions populating the little island are a stark contrast to those buildings seen in Xiamen. Walking along the narrow and twisty cobbled street make me feel as if I’m in some European countries instead.

    Gulangyu colonial house

    Street

    Car-free streets

    Unlike Xiamen islands, the roads here are free from cars. So there are no vehicle noises or needless honking. It’s nice to wander the streets without worrying about moving vehicles which I rather enjoyed. Bulky items are moved around with human-powered two-wheeled carts.

    Rickshaw transport

    Despite all the nice things about Gulangyu, I found the place a little too touristy to my liking. This popular Xiamen attraction is somehow filled with vendors waiting to rip off tourists, everything found here is much more expensive than Xiamen islands. Bargain hard if you really have to buy anything here.

    We also checked out the largest old villa in Gulangyu – Hi Heaven. I can’t remember how much we paid for the entrance fees though. The exotic villa blends both Chinese and Western style together, a unique appearance.

    Mansion

    Mansion entrance

    Goddess statue

    For the return trip, we opt to pay for a speedboat ride back instead of taking the ferry again.

    Speed Boat

    That evening, we dropped by Zhongshan Road for shopping and food hunting. The popular shopping district has plenty of shops and stalls lining up along both sides of the road. And with that, we concluded our short trip to Xiamen.

    Around Zhongshan Lu

    Zhongshan Lu

    Tea at Zhongshan Lu

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    What are your thoughts about Xiamen or Gulangyu? Leave a comment and share it with me.

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  • Food in Kinmen

    Food in Kinmen

    After talking about the wind and sea of Kinmen, let’s talk yum now. The food in Kinmen is heavily influenced by Fujianese way of cooking. So some food we tasted here is somewhat similar to the ones back in Singapore, given that many of our forefathers came from Fujian anyway. The 5 must-try specialities for me would surely be Guangdong Congee (广东粥), Oyster Mee Sua (金門蚵仔麵線), Beef Jerky (金門牛肉乾), Kaoliang Jiu (金門高粱酒) and Peanut Candy (金門貢糖).

    And where’s the best place to start? At the local market of course!

    Market

    Busy Market

    Kinmen Guangdong Congee

    The local’s breakfast of choice would be Guangdong Congee (广东粥) and Youtiao (油條). The congee is cooked until it is almost soup like before adding in egg, pork, prawn or fish.

    The variation will depend on which stall you visit. It’s really more like drinking a bowl of thickened soup than the usual congee we have in Singapore.

    Guangdong Congee

    Kinmen Oyster Mee Sua

    Blessed with abundant resources around its coasts, Kinmen boost some of the best and freshest seafood. Oyster is Kinmen speciality, they are all from the wild, a little smaller than usual but taste freshly sweet.

    Adding on the locally made Mee Sua and we have one heavenly match – the highly acclaimed Kinmen Oyster Mee Sua (金門蚵仔麵線). I have no problem finishing 2 bowls of Oyster Mee Sua at one go lol. A must eat food in Kinmen for me!

    Mee Sua

    Around the market

    Drying Mee Sua

    Kinmen Beef Jerky

    Most locals raise their own cattle and we spotted quite a number of cows when we were travelling in the car. We were told that the cattle here are fed with fermented yeasts deriving from the making of Kaoliang Liquor.

    Perhaps that’s the reason why the beef is tender and chewy. Same goes for the famous Kinmen Beef Jerky (金門牛肉乾) which I bought quite a few packets home.

    Beef Jerky

    Our relatives also brought us to a popular beef restaurant – Gao Keng beef 高坑牛肉店 for their all beef feast. The beef noodles here are the best I have tasted in Kinmen and my, they serve almost every part of the cow!

    The restaurant is also one of the producers of beef jerky.

    Gao Keng beef

    Beef noodles

    Kinmen Peanut Candy

    The peanut candy (金門貢糖) is a snack blending both peanut and sugar together which is both sweet and crispy. Due to Kinmen’s favourable climate, the peanuts here are oily, smooth, crispy and fragrant.

    Peanut Candy Pack

    Kinmen Peanut Candy

    Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor

    Ok, not exactly food but the Kaoliang liquor (金門高粱酒) produced by Kinmen’s winery is well known for its smooth flavour and intoxicating aroma. Do note that the potent alcohol serves in a shot glass can deliver a lethal punch if you can’t hold your liquor well.

    I experienced it first hand during the get-together dinner with our relatives, two glasses and I am almost wasted. Kaoliang gives a burning sensation down the throat and stomach which make me avoid the third glass. But our relatives were drinking it as if like plain water. Their shot glasses were quickly filled, emptied, then quickly filled again. Salute!

    Kinmen Kaoliang

    End thoughts of Kinmen trip…

    This post marks the end of my Kinmen trip which I totally enjoyed. Granted, there are not many interesting sites to keep non-history buffs entertained. But for me, the cold war feel and its tranquillity here provide a worthwhile experience. Walking along the streets of Kinmen is like stepping back in time to Taiwan in the 50’s…very surreal.

    I also hope the two nations will continue to work together so that these military sites remain only for tourism.

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    What are your thoughts about food in Kinmen? Leave a comment and share it with me.

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